Three minutes from the front door, closer than half of via Melzo, and the most Milanese thing on this page.
The Pellegrini family has been behind this counter since 1949, and the city has recognised it as a Bottega Storica, a historic shop. In 2009 they started serving lunch inside the butcher’s, which sounds odd until you understand that they invented the format: every “butcher with a kitchen” in Milan today is descended from this one. Gambero Rosso has awarded it their Foglia, Dissapore put it among the fifteen best in Italy, and it holds a first place from a television award for the best costoletta alla milanese in the city.
How it works. Around 12 euro gets you a plate, a side, bread, a glass of wine, water and a small dessert. Around 22 euro gets you the costoletta, the Milanese breaded veal chop, on the same terms. Tartare, tagliata, dry-aged steak, house lasagne, and more than seventy of their own cured meats. Expect a queue at peak hours and a mix of standing at the counter and small tables. There is no obvious booking system, so arrive early.
One thing to know. Pellegrini began as a macelleria equina, a horse butcher, and horse is still on the menu alongside beef and pork. Until 2005 Italian law forbade horse butchers from selling anything else, which is why places like this exist at all, and why there are almost none left. If horse is not for you, everything comes in a beef version. If you are curious, this is the right place to try it.
You can also just shop. Dry-aged beef, their own salumi, and things you will find nowhere else: Burro degli Dei, lard whipped with garlic, rosemary and speck, or horse bresaola dressed with oil, lemon and parsley. Take it upstairs with a bottle and you have a better dinner than most restaurants will sell you.
Sources disagree on the exact opening times, on whether you sit or stand, and on whether you can book at all. One phone call settles all three.